Loss of power on VW Golf

what is the best way free turbo vanes? cause I have that problem!

Very common problem, will be turbo vanes sticking. Various ways to clean them and when done will be fine.

I tend to agree, my Golf suffered a small end failure, VW were not interested, and when it came to repairs they only sold sets of pistons and conrods. The engine was rebuilt with a re-engineered conrod and bush. 5000 mile later it has failed again with an even louder banging noise from the engine. The engine is too complicated and squeesed in, so very difficult to work on. VW garage rate are now over £70 per hour. Buy a cheap easy to service car (if one exists nowadays) and ditch the Golf.

John Turpin

Yeah new cars are way too complex. What is the need in all the high tech mechanics when it actually makes the car not only a lot less reliable but also alot more expensive to have repaired??? I had these problems with my 2005 VW Passat, which had its fuel injectors, turbo and oil pump all fail in between the 89,000 and 94,000 mile mark. Talk about the good old reliable 'people's car', theyve really let that one go now they know they can get away with it and still make even more money by practically designing their cars to break down outside warranty so we have to spend tonnes of our hard earned cash on all their useless tech.

Golf 2.0 GT DSG Big Problems injectors: I've had exactly the sames problem, engine cut out roughly 6 months ago, display reported "ENGINE FAILURE GARAGE" which would have been nice although I was 200 mile away from home. Got a bill for roughly £1000 for wiring loom and an injector, then for the next 3 months received a bill each month for £800 problem totaled £3500.00 I will never ever buy a VAG VW Golf again absolutely disgusted be careful!!!!!

Just had a couple of other thoughts. Watch out for dodgy fuel knackering the common rail pump. This happened to someone I know who used containers that had once held truck cleaner to store fuel. It seems that traces of detergent reduced the lubricity of the fuel and destroyed the pump. Anyhow the car (Citroen) gradually became jerky to drive and finally clapped-out completely. All was restored with a good used pump (£150 at a breakers) Lorries with old fashioned Simms pumps don't seem to be affected if the fuel is a bit iffy. Good luck with the problem.

Very sorry to hear about incompetent garages. Problem is that you are expecting too much. In general Main Dealers are there to sell cars, change the oil, filters and disc pads and stamp the guarantee books. I had an Audi 100 2 litre petrol (bought cheaply with a suspected fault) I discovered later that the fault that I finally nailed had beaten three or four previous owners and ALL their garages. It was very devious but simple. Local journeys OK, 100 to 120 mile journeys in winter OK. Summer not so good. Perished "O" ring in the K-Jetronic losing pressure when the fuel was heated. At a big VAG main dealer that I limped to I explained how many parts had been changed and they basically crapped themselves and pushed me out onto the double yellow lines. Can't get the right staff any more.

Now your fault is probably aged injector wiring in the plastic tray on top of the engine. This wiring is renowned for failing (not to some main dealers though! - and one has had about £3K from a mate with SFA achieved. Changed head, cam injectors and turbo to no avail) Please also note that the power unit will move during acceleration and flex the wires. As to Fords - another mate had a Ford Fiesta that would stall on a hump back bridge. On the flat it was OK and as he always ran on empty......Pity it was drizzly and dark and a pity that the car was black. Anyhow I rigged up a lawnmower tank on a roof bar and it was still the same so it was off to the pub. Next day I noticed that a wire had come off the ballast resistor and was shorting out when the engine was pulling hard. Wasn't lean mixture or a bad "condenser" at all. Duh! Think I earned my pint. on that one!

I have had the exact same problem with my golf and it is just getting worse and costing me more than what I paid for it

if its a 110 probably a AHF engine (non pd) im in the process of stripping my engine because my belt snapped, ive experienced the same problem, only really saw it on the motorway at speed.......

suggest de-coke the inlet manifold (mine is caked with tar)

I hear you brother have a mark 4 golf tdi whith exactly the same problem only way to cure is to rag the back side off it I n second gear thus clearing the turbo of the build up or carbon deposits will not do its usual thing for about 2weeks then do it again

Hi,i dont know what to say ,i have same problem loss of power when the engine is hot from the 2nd geer.i did full scaner it says no problem at all and I dont know what to do

Regarding the power loss in VW GOLF this could be the EGR valve which is located in the engine manifold/exhaust system. My VW Bora had the same problem and the RAC diagnosed rather than the car dealership- ARNOLD CLARK( otherwirse known as Arnold Crap). Get a new EGR valve from Euro Car Parts directly. website is www.eurocarparts.com. I bought my own parts at less than a third price quoted in a garage including VAT...!!!! Go on.